Wall

Over in what is still referred to as Spain, the shit has hit the fan. 2017 was billed as a white-knuckle ride for Europe and so it has proved to be. From France to Turkey, the continent has rung to the sound of excreta slapping against rotor blades. Germany is no exception. The Federal Parliament …

Vente a Alemania, Pepe

The very second I move from the spot where I am right now, summer will give way to autumn. I am sitting outside a café in the grounds of Niš fortress. Bright though the sun still shines it is hanging low in the sky. There is a chill in the air and the other guests …

Woven

Tony Blair once justified Britain's intervention in the last Balkan war on the grounds that it was "on the doorstep of Europe". It raised a few sniggers at the time given that both Serbia and Kosovo are well within the boundaries of the European landmass. The continent's coastline is a couple of hundred miles in …

Things To Do In Serbia When You’re Dead

When I come down to breakfast, Dragan's mate and his guests are admiring the artwork in the dining room. The centrepiece of the decor is a painting of noble Prince Lazar as he lies mortally wounded on the Field Of Blackbirds. It's a poor copy of a more famous original. Lazar lies propped up on …

Back To The Roots

Before we begin, I should probably tell you about the first time I came to Serbia. In the run-up to the 2014 World Cup Serbia were drawn against Scotland and I decided to make the trip. Curiosity was one reason, fuelled partly by the bad reports in the press. Surely it couldn't be as bad as …